Colour: dark gold. Nose: wonderful at first nosing, starting on big whiffs of coal smoke, soot, cold ashes and dried tangerines. Rather dry and beautifully austere, wonderfully pure. Develops then for a long time, getting much more honeyed. Also mirabelle plum jam, quinces, fig liqueur, leather, ‘old engine’, motor oil… Very complex and obviously superb. Mouth: not exactly powerful but certainly big and immensely salty. Cough drops, orange liqueur, malt, grilled herbs, bitter chocolate, bitter oranges… Granted, there’s a little less complexity than on the nose but it’s still wonderful. And, above all, not tired at all. Finish: medium long, all on oranges, salt, peat and tea. Comments: as often, this is more a whisky for nosing but the palate really stood the course. What a stunning nose!

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