As it closes in on age 20, the 2002 Haut-Brion is beginning to drink very well, opening in the glass with aromas of blackcurrants, plums, cigar wrapper, loamy soil, burning embers and violets. Fleshing out considerably with an hour or two in the decanter, it's medium-bodied, vibrant and concentrated, exemplifying the ideal of intensity without weight, with a deep core of fruit framed by powdery tannins and lively acids. An underrated wine that has rewarded patience, the 2002 Haut-Brion confirms that great terroirs over-perform in cooler, more challenging years.

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