Producer note: Dominique Lafon reports that there was a bit of hail damage in Meursault though none of it was heavy. He describes his 2001s as less elegant than 2000 and very ripe though carrying lower levels of acidity; the only exception to this are the Désirée and perhaps the Montrachet, in which he prefers the 2001 versions. Lafon went on to say that the 2001s are blessed with lovely fruit and from the standpoint of raw material, the difference between the two vintages is minor. Between 1999, 2000 and 2001, Lafon said that he prefers the purity of the 2000 vintage. Sharp-eyed readers may notice the absence of the 2001 Gouttes d'Or and it has been declassified into the Meursault villages. Lafon's present plan is to bottle in the spring and the wines will be fined but not filtered. (Beaune Imports, Berkeley, Tasting note: While not as intense as the Genevrières, the 2000 Charmes offers drop dead gorgeous aromas of impeccably pure citrus, hazelnut, brown butter and a trace of toasty oak combined with dramatic, round, intense, powerful flavors that display limestone, pear and impressive detail. This offers a finish that is rich, penetrating, long and impeccably well balanced. A really beautifully effort.

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