Roulot's 2017 Meursault Meix Chavaux is more reserved than the Luchets and Vireuils, unwinding in the glass with a youthfully reticent bouquet of crisp green orchard fruit, citrus oil and pastry cream. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with superb depth and definition, racy acids and a long, chalky finish. There's more substance here, but the wine will also need more time.

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