The 2015 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Boudots from Lalou Bize-Leroy is an extraordinary rendition of this great vineyard, opening in the glass with a deep bouquet of sweet spices, dark fruit—plum, cherry—and rose petal that's both more exotic and less savory than this year's Vignerondes. On the palate, the wine is immensely concentrated, with grand cru depth and dimension, its authoritative chassis of fine-grained tannin only asserting itself on the firm, saline finish. In contrast to the giving Vignerondes, this Boudots is decidedly more brooding and structurally reserved, and it will need a decade in the cellar and benefit from longer.

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