Mme. Leroy's top Vosne Premier Cru offering, the dark-colored Vosne-Romanee Les Beaux Monts (350 cases) exhibits invitingly spicy, deep red and black fruit aromas. The flavors are packed with fat, ripe cherries, and touches of earth and cinnamon. Full-bodied, velvety textured, incredibly long and stunningly elegant ...

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The expressive nose is now displaying plenty of secondary developments with notes of spice, sandalwood and Asian-style tea in evidence. I had always been somewhat skeptical that this would be able to shed its very firm, even borderline aggressive tannic spine yet while the mid-palate of the middle weight plus flavors remains firm and, it's necessary to say, inelegant, there is impressive depth and length on the ever-so-slightly tough finale. For my taste this has arrived at its apogee and while it's certainly not a refined example of the appellation, it certainly doesn't lack for character. Consistent, and multiple, notes except that some bottles display a whiff of volatile acidity.

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