The 1995 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru from the late Philippe Engel is beautiful, wafting from the glass with notes of sweet red-black fruit, incense, game bird, rich soil and toasty new oak—which integrates more and more with air. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and generous, with a lavishly textural attack, succulent acids, melting tannins and a long, penetrating finish. For a 1995 red Burgundy, this is decidedly dramatic and pleasure-bent.

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