While the 2011 Meursault Les Rougeots is still a young wine, it's beginning to drink very well, unfurling in the glass with a beautifully integrated bouquet of lemon oil, green apple, sesame and wheat toast, framed by a very subtle touch of smoky reduction that dissipates with aeration. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and racy, with a layered, nicely concentrated core, tangy acids and a long, lingeringly stony finish. This is shaping up to be an excellent but comparatively precocious vintage for Coche-Dury, and readers with multiple bottles shouldn't be afraid to try one in the next year or two.

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