Denis Bachelet’s 2007 Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is lovely, bursting from the glass with a lovely bouquet of creamy wild berries, wood smoke, rich soil and a classy framing of new oak. On the palate, the wine is ample, generous and quite structurally open-knit, with a cool core of fruit, a textural attack and sneaky persistence on the finish. Like many of even the top 2007s, this can already be approached with pleasure.

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