There are 8 barrels of the 2014 Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru this year, five of them new. The bouquet demanded encouragement from the glass and it retains a sense of broodiness and introspection. This is holding everything back, although one can see that it leans more to the black side of the fruit spectrum compared to redder Corbeaux. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe, quite succulent tannin, but as always there is real elegance and poise here. It clams up a little towards the finish, just leaves the door open ajar, but sufficient to notice its impressive structure with a tingle of black pepper on the aftertaste. It will need several years in bottle, but it will be worth the wait.

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