Showcasing 50 year old vines in particularly stony, clay-poor soil, the Ente 2006 Meursault Clos des Ambres mingles freshly milled wheat, lemon, coconut, honeysuckle and chalk dust in the nose; combines density and creaminess of texture with refreshment, and ripe fruit with restraint; and finishes with clarity and polish. It should evolve nicely for 4-5 years. Ente began picking September 13, finishing in six days. The result is wines of consistent clarity and refreshment, as well as full of nuances that call forth a mineral vocabulary. Use of demi-muids rather than barriques to raise many of the wines here helps ward off any overt woodiness. Eighty percent of Ente’s wine is exported, most of that to the U.S. and U.K.

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