The 2009 Meursault Genevrieres takes hold of the palate and never lets up. This is simply marvelous juice. Layers of ripe, expressive fruit emerge from the glass in this captivating, rich Meursault. A vein of minerality appears on the mid-palate, adding freshness and proportion through to the palate staining finish. This is a showstopper from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is one of Burgundy’s most exciting young producers. Colin-Morey works with six hectares of vineyards, three of which are estate owned, while the rest are sources of purchased fruit. According to Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, the key to 2009 was picking early. The harvest started on the September 4. Colin-Morey did a long, slow press, with no batonnage once the wines were in barrel, all with the aim of preserving as much freshness as possible given the natural ripeness of the fruit. Roughly 80% of the wines were aged in 350-liter barrels, larger than the norm in Burgundy. Colin-Morey finished bottling the 2009s in April 2011. Colin-Morey told me he wasn’t enthused about the 2009s at first, but now thinks the wines have enough freshness to age well.

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