One of the great Barolo Monfortino's is the 1995, which I hope will be bottled and released before 2005. This was the finest wine I tasted in Conterno's cellars (everything between current releases and 2000). Significantly concentrated, it represents a tiny crop because of hail damage. The wine reveals the essence of licorice, kirsch, smoke, red currant and cherries, as well as the tell-tale rose petal and licorice notes. It is ripe and full-bodied, with sweet fruit, copious glycerin, and a seamless finish that lasts for nearly 45 seconds. As the wine sat in the glass, it became even more floral and concentrated. There is abundant tannin, and the wine will undoubtedly taste more structured when it is released. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2040.

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